With so many people, the answer to the state’s economic struggle lies in jobs, not charity.
1. Nonprofits or organizations focused on social change don’t always understand the nuances of business. And yet, many organizations that work with artisans are nonprofits. So the two have to come together to help each other: nonprofits can do trainings and help artisans improve their skill sets while businesses can create markets.
2. Design is powerful. Products have to sell themselves. The story is an added perk. Can this mission-driven product compete with what’s in the market? It may have a better story, a more powerful impact in the supply chain, but if the design is dated, or unappealing, it will not sell. So invest in designers.
3. Coalitions are needed. Alone one company can only create limited impact. A coalition of companies and nonprofits can be much more forceful.
4. No more charity buys. The era of buying stuff because it made you “feel good” is over. Customers want to buy products because they’re useful, practical, and fit into their decor or lifestyle. The t-shirt for a “good cause” is dead. Encourage companies to build viable products, not charity buys.
5. Market tactfully. Much like design, the marketing has to compete with conventional brands. Is it alluring, tasteful, exciting? Ethical brands can’t be preachy. They have to show, not tell, that their products are better — or worth purchasing.
While these were clear takeaways of what the artisan sector knows, and can work towards, other areas are murkier.1. Could artisans be compared to coffee farmers? No. The comparison between handmade goods and commodities such as coffee and chocolate are hard to justify. While coalitions, international organizations, and certification bodies have helped small-scale farmers connect to larger marketplaces, the artisan sector isn’t one global commodity. It can’t be treated with a homogenous approach.
2. An Etsy for the developing world? This seems like a long shot. While it may seem romantic (and ideal) to foresee a world where artisans in the developing world can sell directly to customers globally, the logistics of this are overwhelming and challenging. Many artisans don’t speak English, struggle with digital platforms, and don’t have any way of accepting payments. Plus, their designs need development. Thus, intermediaries will be necessary to help them connect to markets.
3. Capitalism will eek out injustices. The room was divided on this: can capitalism create markets and help alleviate inequalities? Historically, capitalism hasn’t been able to solve inequalities by itself. However, some argued the delicate balance of supply and demand can uplift the artisan sector in the coming years.
What do you think? Comment below and let us know what you think the artisan sector needs to advance forward.]]>We decided to rethink that model by celebrating the variations of products made by hand, agreeing to pay more, and be willing to wait as they completed their works of art.
In the last five years, the company has evolved tremendously, allowing us to impact more lives, create more jobs, and give more back to the artisan communities we treasure.
This annual roundup gives you a snapshot of how a for-profit entity can create impactful change in communities by connecting people to markets that remained beyond their reach.
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First, employment and jobs:
In 2015, Mela Artisans created nearly 7,000 full-time jobs for artisans in India. The bulk of these went to women: 4,195 of the full-time artisanswho created products for us are, in fact, women.
We helped establish about 100,000 total days of employment for the artisan community. That’s up from 78,965 days of employment in 2014.
Our deepest impact is in the state of Uttar Pradesh where we procure metal, bone/horn, and wood items for our home collections. Three cities — Moradabad, Sambhal, and Saharanpur — have the largest concentration of these materials and artisans who can assemble them into works of art.
Uttar Pradesh is one of India’s poorest states — and yet also the largest and most populous. The Economist stated that if UP were to be its own country, it would be the 5th most populous in the world, and yet have the GDP of Oman, a country of less than 2 million. Uttar Pradesh has struggled economically, being referred to as one of the regions that are poorer than sub-saharan Africa by UNDP.
With so many people, the answer to the state’s economic struggle lies in jobs, not charity.
Creating jobs is important to give livelihoods and keep alive these traditions.
One business owner who now runs a successful workshop in Saharanpur, overseeing 150 artisans, started as a wood carver in the 1970s, earning about 200 Rs a month. Today his artisans get paid more than that each day for their efforts.
Mohammad Ayub is one of those men. A local, he’s been working as an artisan for over 20 years in the same workshop, specializing in brass inlay. That is, when wooden tables, boxes, and bowls are accentuated with brass and metal. It’s detailed painstaking work, that requires a layer of metal to be embedded into the wood and filed down.
“I learned how to do this as a young man, at the age of 11 or so. A gentleman who lived in the same neighborhood as me taught me,” he says. Asked if he’d like to see any changes in his work today?”
“I want more work. I wish there was more work.”
He smiles. He has a daughter and son. Will they take up this line? He hesitates.
Wood-carving may not carry forward its legacy. While the workshops are bustling with activity, today’s youth in Saharanpur prefer to drive rickshaws than do their father’s or grandfather’s work.
“It pays more, it’s easier and it’s in demand. People need transport; people will always need transport,” the workshop owner says.
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Secondly, beyond creating employment, we strive to put back 1% of our sales into projects that help the artisans.
Thus far, these projects have been concentrated around the health of artisans. By partnering with local non-profits who already have the infrastructure to deliver medical care, we can support other social entrepreneurs, like ourselves, and get the artisans what they need. It’s a win-win scenario.
In 2015, we partnered with Vision Spring, Sevamob, and Greenlight Planet — three innovative social enterprises in India.
Vision Spring helped us deliver 616 pairs of eyeglasses to our artisans in Kashmir and Erode. Given that many of them work on fine details all day long, doing embroidery, stitching, and weaving, their vision can suffer from the strain and scrutiny.
Vision Spring has given, or sold, over 2 million glasses around the world through a variety of models: from partnering with organizations like ourselves to having a crew of local salesmen (and women) who sell glasses for low-cost. Their aim, though, is very similar to ours: to help people make a better livelihood.
Deteriorating vision is not only frustrating but also costly, affecting an artisan’s ability to work, be productive, and consequently, earn. That’s why we joined hands with Vision Spring in 2014, giving out 130 glasses. In 2015, we multiplied that by five-fold and reached new artisan communities.
Coupled with glasses is the need for light to be able to see properly. Greenlight Planet, a Bombay-based social enterprise, sells and distributes solar lanterns to the 2 billion individuals living off-the-grid. In 2015, they helped us give out 163 lanterns to our artisans in Kashmir and South India.
We concentrated on these rural areas because they didn’t have access to electricity, leaving them to work in the dark. In fact, the ophthalmologists with Vision Spring informed us that the main cause of poor eyesight affecting our weavers in South India was a lack of proper lighting.
Lastly, Sevamob, an on-the-wheels medical company, provides care at the workplace. They came to Jaipur to give 75 artisans medical checkups. A crew of doctors and technicians checked for the basics: blood pressure, sugar levels, heart health, cholesterol, and more. Medicines were distributed for those who needed treatment.
Sevamob has 15 units that they drive around 7 cities in India currently, conducting health camps such as these for social enterprises, NGOs, and even for-profit institutions. Their aim is simple: make healthcare affordable and at your finger tips — literally. They prize preventative care. It’s not just about medical emergencies and visiting doctors when you’re sick. Rather, keep tabs on your health routinely. We couldn’t agree more.
Public medical care in India can be dilapidated, frustrating, and inefficient. As a result many artisans refuse to take time to go to the doctor for routine checkups. Of course, cost is a factor. Even if the care is free — the long queue at the clinic, the time away from work, and transportation add up.
So we decided to bring healthcare to them.
In fact, Sevamob, a Delhi-based social enterprise, brings doctors and clinicians to your door. Earlier this fall, they brought their physicians and experts to Jaipur to meet with some of our artisans for medical check ups.
Over 75 artisans were assessed. This included blood tests, ear tests, dental check ups, body weight measurements, blood pressure, skin, bone and more. For those who needed prescription drugs, the doctors provided the artisans with the necessary meds.
The founder of Sevamob, Shelly Saxena, is a big believer in personal medical care. Everyone, he says, no matter who they are, or at what socio-economic level they’re situated in, would prefer to see a doctor in person. That’s why he started this enterprise 5 years ago, which goes beyond digital health and telemedicine to hands-on treatment.Sevamob has 15 units that they drive around 7 cities in India currently, conducting health camps such as these for social enterprises, NGOs, and even for-profit institutions. Their aim is simple: make healthcare affordable and at your finger tips — literally. In addition, they prize preventative care. It’s not just about medical emergencies and visiting doctors when you’re sick. Rather, keep tabs on your health routinely. We couldn’t agree more.“We can’t just assume that by sending an SMS, the person will read it, follow through, and actually take care of their health,” he says.
It’s well-known in the development sector that artisan work is the second largest employer, after agriculture. Craft, therefore, is a commercially-viable art. That’s why the Alliance works to help more artisan-based communities connect with retailers, social enterprises, foundations, and companies looking to sell and promote their products. Since its inception, they’ve accumulated 60 members. The Alliance for Artisan Enterprise (or more casually known as the Alliance) — a collaboration between The Aspen Institute and the Secretary’s Office of Global Women’s Issues (S/GWI) for the U.S. Department of State — is a global platform to promote artisan enterprises with a specific focus on women artisans and their families. Last week, on September 10th, The Alliance partnered with the U.S. Department of State to launch a Global Campaign for the artisan sector. The event was called the New StartUp Economy Forum. That’s where we come in. Navroze Mehta, co-founder of Mela Artisans, flew to DC for the festivities. Follow @AllianceArtisan for more about the campaign and how you can get involved. Comment to tell us why you #chooseartisan @MelaArtisans on Twitter and Instagram. Here are some snapshots from the event: Secretary of State John Kerry spoke on the importance of the craft sector for the UN’s Post 2015 Sustainable Development Goals and the global economy:The Alliance estimates that between 2002 and 2008, the world exports of artisan products nearly doubled: from $17.5 billion to $32 billion, respectively.
“…Although it’s still in its infancy, this Alliance for Artisan Enterprise has literally already become an important platform for identifying and breaking down barriers to small-scale artisans in countries all across the developing world.”
— Secretary of State John Kerry
On supporting women artisans, Ambassador Cathy Russell says:
—Verna Eggleston of Bloomberg Philanthropies
— Reema Nanavati, Head of SEWA (Self-Employed Women’s Association of India, pictured in the middle)
]]>Hunarmand, a Kashmir-based non-profit working with Mela, is trying to create opportunities for these women, by opening more markets for their beautifully stitched products. Jahangir Ahmed Bhat, Project Manager for Hunarmand in Srinagar, says “there is satisfaction in the work.” A post graduate, specializing in craft management, he hails from rural Kashmir. Bhat is compelled by the women who practice this art.“If we are able to create a sustainable order stream for these women, the potential impact on the livelihoods of their families and kids would be tremendous and that inspires me,” says Patwa.
Bhat’s hometown, Kulgam, lies 68 km outside of Srinagar; known as the “rice bowl of Kashmir,” it’s a deeply agrarian community with most people growing rice, apples, or raising livestock. Nestled in front of the Peer Panchal range of mountains, the inner most range of the Himalayas, Kulgam has a surreal landscape. Yet, life can be strenuous for locals. Tasleema Akhter, a master artisan, who now works with Bhat, grew up in Kulgam as well. Her parents passed away when she was very young; she, and her three siblings, were raised by her grandmother who was “left to fend for us,” Akhter recalls. To make a living, they reared cattle. Embroidery was a pastime as a child. At 8 years of age, she was learning how to perfect hook stitches from her relatives. Embroidery stayed a hobby for years — until 4 years ago when she signed up to work with INTACH, India’s National Trust for Arts and Cultural Heritage, a project that started in 1984 to help artisans around the country. Now, she says, “Work is worship.” The transition from a hobby to a serious source of income started when she was 16: she began working as an individual artisans for local traders. “There was no financial security as the work used to be irregular,” she says. “Most of my time, I was sitting idle.” Work was underpaid and payments trickled in long after they were due. Then, after five years of going solo, she decided to join an artisan group like Hunarmand (which translates to “skillful”). “Actually, here, it means skillful women,” says Bhat. Akhter became one of these skillful women. Today, she’s regarded as a master artisan and supervises other women, learning the craft. Operating in a group was the answer, she says. “The artisan group provides equal working opportunities to all of its members and is working as a unit.” After joining the group, she didn’t just get higher wages, she says. Rather, she learned how to improve her skills and discover new templates, patterns, and designs. “They already have the skill set to do this,” says Patwa. “All we provide is the new vision for more contemporary patterns. When you use a traditional skill like this and update it in a modern way, that’s all you need to make it fresh again.” “She has been very instrumental,” says Bhat, referring to Akhter’s ability to educate more young women on the new designs. In 2011, when an opportunity came to take on a managerial role, Akhter became a production coordinator for INTACH. This year, the co-founders of Mela Artisans, Navroze Mehta and Sonali Mehta-Rao met Akhter on one of their routine visits and were captivated by her passion for the craft. “She’s a dynamic, driven, charismatic and talented leader who has really earned the respect of all of her fellow artisans,” Mehta notes.“Whenever we receive an order that really brings energy and hope in us. I immediately start visualizing the impact of the order and the changes work will bring in the lives of women.”
She’s trying to do the same for the many other girls under her supervision. It’s her favorite part of the job: “I like everything that I do for the artisan group but the best part of my job that I like most is training new girls.” It’s more than about passing the torch. “I believe it would help many financially disadvantaged families become economically independent,” she says. She’s talking about herself: Akhter has been driven by her parent’s premature death and having to work to support her siblings. Marriage is on the horizon but she intends on continuing her work. “Why not?” she says, cheekily. ]]>Having transformed herself “from an insecure individual artisan to a group leader,” she says, “working has raised my confidence level.”